The streets of Jakarta’s historical Chinatown are made for getting lost. Most of the city’s ethnic Chinese community have long moved on from Glodok, resettling in other neighborhoods like Pluit, Pantai Indah Kapuk, and residential developments in the city’s west. But Glodok is still the best place to go if you want some classic Chinese home cooking.
Talking about Chinese home cooking, it can’t be separated from Hakka food, as a part of the Indonesian-Chinese culture. So where can you find some of the best Hakka food in Jakarta? Recently, I’ve visited Wong Fu Kie, Jakarta’s first and oldest Hakka Chinese restaurant that hidden in a tiny alley.
To come to this place, you need to reach Jalan Perniagaan Timur, West Jakarta. Wong Fu Kie is located deep down a narrow, nondescript alley beside a branch of Bank Central Asia. There’s no big sign, so you just need to know that it’s in building number 22 or you’ll end up walking right by it.
Wong Fu Kie is legendary among the Indonesian capital’s Chinese community and has been open for almost a century. The place itself has a basic decor and unpretentious, it is modest, decorated with Chinese almanacs and old photos.
The owner, Mr. Tjokro, the third generation of his family to run Wong Fu Kie said that Wong Fu Kie has always been authentic and have not been modified since the restaurant opened more than nine decades ago. The original recipes were for authentic Hakka food, something Wong Fu Kie still makes today with four characteristic elements of Hakka food; red yeast rice, garlic, arrack, and sago.
Mun Kiaw Mien
Please make sure you order this menu when at Wong Fu Kie. The Mun Kiaw Mien noodles were served mun style. That means they were not exactly dry, but they weren’t in soup either. The noodles came with boiled dumplings, vegetables, and seafood. It’s not only super authentic, but it’s also one of the dishes you can only find in Wong Fu Kie.
Wong San Fumak
The Wong San Fumak came out next. This is the eel that everyone loves so much, and it’s the main reason peoples came out to Wong Fu Kie in the first place. It is stir-fried eel with Indian lettuce and red yeast rice. The eel is chopped, filleted, and then coated in sago flour before being deep-fried with the other ingredients. The red yeast rice sauce made the eel look red in color, but it was more sweet and sour than spicy. The eel was crispy, the sauce smooth, and the whole thing was so good that it was worth the trip alone.
Sweet & Sour Pork
Kuluyuk Babi or sweet and sour pork is also recommended. The pork cutlet is fried to perfection, juicy, and tender. It tastes savory and perfectly combined with the sweet and sour sauce, every flavor is just on point.
Pek Cam Kee
This is another popular dish at Wong Fu Kie, Pek Cam Kee or Chinese steamed chicken. The chicken is first steamed for about 45 minutes before being thoroughly rubbed with salt. Plenty sesame oil and garlic sauce are then poured over the chicken so that the meat can absorb the flavor. After the chicken has been left to marinate, it is cut into pieces. More sesame oil is poured over the chicken, with a sprinkling of garlic, before the dish is served. The meat was juicy on the inside and savory on the outside. It’s another authentic Hakka dish and one that proved to me that nearly everything at Wong Fu Kie is great.
The one that you shouldn’t miss too is their chili sauce. It’s spicy with a hint of sour taste. Just put some garlic to the chili sauce and it will give you a taste booster for all the dishes, especially pek cam kee.
Overall, I am glad to found Wong Fu Kie who served authentic Hakka food for decades. All the foods were great, especially their specialties Mun Kiaw Mien that you can’t find at any other restaurant since no other place makes Mun Kiaw Mien in Jakarta. The downside is you’ll experience a long waiting time (up to 1 hour), especially during peak hours since they only have 1 chef. So, I highly recommend you to come here before or after lunch hour.
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Wong Fu Kie Chinese Hakka Restaurant
Jl. Perniagaan Timur II / 22 (Pasar Pagi Lama)
West Jakarta 11230
Opening Hours: Tue – Sun (8 AM – 5 PM)
Monday Closed
Telp: +6221 690 6374 / +6221 692 4172 / +6221 6928758 / +62812 1066 9928
Spending per pax: IDR 50,000 (approx.)
Taste: 8,5/10
Service: 7/10
Place: 7/10
Value for Money: 7,5/10
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