Kopitiam, literally means coffee shop (coffee in Malay and shop in Hokkien/Hakka), is commonly found all over Singapore and Malaysia. It is a common part of Singapore, where a typical drink stall would sell coffee (kopi) and tea (teh) along with breakfast items of kaya toast and soft-boiled eggs.
During my #FoodInLoveSINGAPORE trip earlier this year, I’ve visited Heap Seng Leong, an old school Kopitiam that has been open since the 1970s. Located at 10 North Bridge Road, this traditional coffee shop transports you back in time. One step into Heap Seng Leong and you may feel a wave of nostalgia sweep over you.
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This coffee shop is owned by Mr. Shi Pong Hsu, who is in his eighties and his son, Mr. Shi Ting Chow. The uncle is wearing a singlet and old style pajamas pants which seems out of place in today’s context. But this was the way people wore in the past. Most of the customers in the coffee shop were elderly folks who are reading Chinese newspapers while sipping their coffee.
Yet its lack of change for what has probably been decades is what makes Heap Seng Leong stand out. Sticking true to what traditional coffee would taste like. The signboard, the cabinets, and the tiles remain, only the chairs are a newcomer (well not that new too). Everything from the tiled walls to the marble top table spells nothing but old school. Then there’s the truly old-school method of calculating. The abacus here could easily be one of the remaining few still in active use in Singapore.
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Heap Seng Leong serves as a place for common folks to eat and drink, or just gather around to chit chat or gossip about the latest news. Aside from its old-school look and feel, Heap Seng Leong is also well known for its Kopi Gu You, also known as butter coffee. It is one of the last few coffee shops in Singapore that still serves this drink.
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Kopi Gu You (Butter Coffee)
Even for the coffee lover, ordering coffee in Singapore can be a complicated affair. There is kopi-o, kopi-c, kopi siew dai, kopi ga dai, kopi-c siew dai, kopi-o kosong etc. Just like the name suggests, Kopi Gu You is actually coffee with condensed milk and a slice of butter floating on top.
Kopi Gu You is smooth and silky. Like a good cup of kopi but a notch creamier. It is aromatic yet not too sweet from the condensed milk. The addition of the gu you gave the kopi a slight savory note as well as some silkiness. It is super good anyway and I like it so much!
Soft Boiled Eggs
When the Soft Boiled Eggs $1.20 arrived, I was thrilled that it was cooked perfectly! The soft boiled eggs were cracked for you so you don’t have to do it yourself. Do note, the eggs are cooked only upon order. Hence, there is a need to wait around 6 to 8 minutes for this. With some dashes of pepper and a few drops of soy sauce, its truly an enjoyable and satisfying breakfast for me.
Kaya Toast
Appearance wise, you won’t get to see something very presentable, flatten and well stack. However, these toasts do carry a very traditional feel and taste on the plate. Kaya toast ($1.20) is simplicity at its best, slices of soft white cotton-like bread with a slab of butter and kaya sandwich in between them are charcoal toasted to imperfection.
Slathered with kaya before laying down pieces of butter in-between two slices of perfectly imperfect toast, I wouldn’t want it any other way. It may not be as crispy like a biscuit as compared to the chains coffee cafe but they do have a charred fragrance.
Overall, if you want to take a step back in time and sip a cup of good traditional coffee without paying too much like what we spend in a hipster cafe, just visit Heap Seng Leong for its simple flavors. My satisfying breakfast consisting of Coffee with Butter (Kopi Gu You), Kaya Toast, and Soft Boiled Eggs cost just $3.40! This is so affordable. If you enjoy old school style coffee shop, you will definitely enjoy the food over there. For my personal experience, I enjoyed it so much!
If you come to Heap Seng Leong earlier in the morning, there is a Malay food stall in front of them. You can look forward to their Nasi Lemak ($3) and Curry Puff with mackerel/potato filling ($1). I’ve tried both of them and it’s yummy as well. So if you come here earlier (I think the Malay food stall only open from 8-11 AM), make sure you give it a try!
How to getting there:
By MRT: Take exit A of Lavender station towards the Immigration & Checkpoint Authority (ICA). Once up the escalator, turn left towards the small canal. Cross the bridge to other side and then look for Block number 10. It’s about 6 mins walk from MRT Station or 3 minutes from Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle.
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Heap Seng Leong 協勝隆
Blk 10 North Bridge Road, #01-5109
Singapore 190010
Opening Hours:
Everyday (4 AM – 8 PM)
Telp: +65 6292 2368
How to getting there:
By MRT: Take exit A of Lavender station towards the Immigration & Checkpoint Authority (ICA). Once up the escalator, turn left towards the small canal. Cross the bridge to other side and then look for Block number 10. It’s about 6 mins walk from MRT Station or 3 minutes from Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle.
MAP
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